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You are watching: How to replace clutch master cylinder chevy s10



Before you install the new MC get the pin started, then after you have the line attached, use pliers to fully press the pin in.
awesome!! Thanks for the right up, i was looking at that pin and was wondering if that was it. I can access it with it still in the firewall but it"d be pretty tough to punch the pin out with it still in. I"ll give it shot with it still in but i"ll probably will end up removing it. Thanks a ton man!
Even if you don"t plan on removing it, just twist it loose from the firewall, leaving it still attached to the clutch pedal. This will let you pull it out farther and turn it on its side, much easier to remove that pin. It will be easy to push back and attache to the firewall after, don"t be worried about that.

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Perfect! Just got it out with a pliers and a nail pushing the pin from one side. Thanks for all the help!! Do I need to bleed the new line when I install it other than maybe taking a syringe and topping off the line before i put it on?
O"boy, here we go again.Bleeding these things is not for the faint of heart.Assuming that you have opened the line, below the MC you will have to do a thorough job bleeding.This is a 3 step process.It helps a lot to have the front of the truck as high as you can safely go.1) Attach a long hose to the bleeder on the slave cylinder, long enough that you can bring it up and through the engine compartment. You want a funnel or bottle attached to this end of the hose. The funnel must be well above the top of the clutch MC, like hanging from the open hood edge.Open the bleeder when you have the funnel filled with fresh brake fluid. Have the MC cap off and suck up the fluid as it fills. Let it flow for a couple of minutes to get a good flush. Close the bleeder.Now the slave cylinder and line should be clear of air. Now you need to bleed the MC itself.2) With the MC reservoir full and the driver"s window open, use a long stick or screwdriver to "tickle" the clutch pedal. This means that you will rapidly move the clutch pedal just 1/8" up and down. More than this is useless as the reservoir port is capped off when the pedal travels more than 3/16". Do this while watching the fluid in the reservoir. You should see a tiny stream of white coming up from the bottom of the reservoir, this is air being purged out = good. You may need to do this a couple of minutes.3) Now you want to untwist the MC from the firewall, have the fluid level about 1/2 now. With the MC disconnected from the firewall, pull it into the engine compartment and put a stick against the clutch pedal to hold it down. Now tilt the MC upright, but lift the front end of it. Now with the cap removed you again want to tickle the MC. Gently move it against the push rod in small increments to purge the air. The last step should only take a minute or so.You have now removed as much of the air as possible. I"m afraid their are no short cuts to bleeding the clutch.