You are watching: 2001 ford taurus heater core flush
I deserve to offer a few suggestions if you like.First, you have a 2001 auto and also it’s currently 2013; age is working versus you. My guess is none of the hoses have ever before been adjusted and if you intended to keep the automobile they need to be at that age.Second, take the flush kit earlier for a refund if friend can, all you space doing is creating another place because that the device to leak…And, whereby did you plan to dispose of all the old coolant? making use of that mechanism you will finish up through gallons the old coolant and also water and also most civilization don’t have a means to collection it and while i’m not specifically a “green” human being most people just let it run off or dump it under a storm drain. No a an excellent thing and also illegal in many if no all states.Third, for God’s services don’t usage compressed air to blow the end anything. The cooling system usually never ever sees pressures higher than to speak 12 come 15 psi. I doubt her heater main point would make it through that ordeal.Forth, if you start messing through hoses, particularly those on your radiator save in mental the top and bottom tanks on that unit are plastic. They room brittle through now and also the rubber seals are probably drying out. Again, you might end up developing a leak whereby none exist at this point.Why execute you want to flush your heater core? If the for lack of warmth in the car it’s far more likely the difficulty is the “diverter plate” in the heater air air conditioning system.; a known trouble in older cars (not simply Ford). The plate in question controls whereby hot and also cold waiting mix and also they stick and also or have been recognized to have regulate motor concerns leaving you with either too much cold wait or too much hot air. The difficulty is typical enough this guy actually renders a better one:http://www.heatertreater.net/index.htmlMy suggestion, because that what it’s precious is if friend really want to flush the cooling mechanism take it to a dealer with the an equipment that does it right. Make certain they use Ford authorized coolant (they are not all the same) and also distilled water for the refill. Make sure you get a new factory radiator cap as well, they wear the end too.Nope, it’s not cheap, however my assumption: v is that will cost you far far much less in the lengthy run. Don"t open that deserve to of worms for yourself.Good luck man
Ok, you didn’t cite if friend were getting heat inside the car or not. If you execute a little bit of browsing you will discover most the the clogged heater core worries were really the diverter valve (the flap door within the heater) or that is actuator not functioning properly. That’s far more common than a clogged core.The easiest method to examine the main point is to operation the engine increase to full operating temperature. Rotate the warm on full with full fan.There space two hoses coming v the firewall right into the engine compartment. Feeling each hose (one is the in hose one is the the end hose. If both hoses are hot, or one is just an extremely slightly cooler (the out flow side) the main point is fine. If one side is warm or hot and the various other cold then yes, that’s a clogged heater core. To do the washing up the main point pull the heater hoses in ~ the firewall (very gently, a damaged core is a nightmare of removing most every little thing under the dash and it’s the really last component you gain to) and also using a garden hose on low push flush water very first in one side then the other, back and forth. Watch what comes out. When the water is clear the main point is together clean together you have the right to make it. If small or no water flows with the core, it needs replaced.If the main point is flowing coolant and you still have no heat, sorry but it’s going to it is in the diverter flap or the actuator.If girlfriend still desire to flush the system just for the heck of it eliminate the radiator cap and pull huge hose turn off the bottom the the radiator (remember, the plastic, be very careful). Permit everything drainpipe out. Placed the hose back on and fill v clean water, run the engine up to operating temperature (make sure you save the radiator full). Let the cool and also drain the again.Put the bottom hose back on again and also fill v 50-50 coolant and distilled water and again, run the engine to complete temperature, make certain the radiator is full and also the overflow deserve to is complete to the line change the radiator lid (get a new one) and bingo, you are flushed.One last thought on this. If every little thing in the heating cooling mechanism is working? Don’t try to resolve it.
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